New Jersey Life "October 2007" ***Three Stars***
BRANDL
703 Belmar Plaza (Ninth & Main)
Belmar
732.280.7501
[3 stars]
Only the Shore could produce such an amiable paradox of a restaurant. Chris Brandl, a Johnson & Wales grad, turns out ambitious New American food in a quirky space at a small shopping plaza. The important hallmarks of fine dining — including smooth white table linens, quality wine glasses, and excellent bread and butter — are juxtaposed with gray industrial carpeting, a mishmash of garishly colored walls and ceiling, and lots of vibrant artwork, only half of which I would hang in my home.
The clientele is pure New Jersey. Among those on our visit were a large family, three generations in tow, celebrating happily in the center, and a party of two women, sequined and sparkling from the tips of their rhinestoned sunglasses down to their red patent-leather shoes. They would fit right in at Broadway Night, which was coming up soon at the restaurant. (Comedy Night is another feature.) Our server, a sunburned, middle-age surfer dude, completed the picture perfectly.
The elegance of the fare and the prices — entrees average $36 — belie the restaurant’s setting. A wonderful foie gras starter, seared on the outside and soft and melting inside, is partnered with a perky pineapple relish whose sweetness is tempered by soft red onion. Also hitting a nice balance is Brandl’s version of tuna tartare, for which he employs nairagi, a striped marlin with silky orange-red flesh. His stacked treatment is a study of colors and textures, including a base of zippy guacamole, zigzag scribbles of crème fraîche, a drizzle of citrus-enhanced soy sauce, a dollop of caviar, and four spears of chive. More robust, and equally excellent, was the soup of the day: smoky grilled tomato accompanied by a crispy Parmesan tuile filled with a salad of roasted corn.
The restaurant is a BYO, and our server expertly handled the wine we brought. I hear that during the busy season service here can become overtaxed, but our server took thoughtful care of us.
Two of my tablemates swooned over the buffalo tenderloin, beefy rich in
flavor and as tender as butter. Demi-glace sweetened with raspberries cut the richness appropriately. Although steak-cut fries in theory are the perfect all-American accompaniment, they fall just short of crisp here. Boneless hunks of supple lamb receive an inventive Middle Eastern treatment that features a loose hummus, a squirt of mint oil, and candied black olives. The olives were a first for me, and improbably good.
A generous serving of sea scallops, expertly seared, was marred by sand, a rookie misstep in an otherwise stellar dish that includes organic white polenta strewn with morels and pencil-thin asparagus. A carrot-lime broth, slightly thickened and as vivid in flavor as in color, is the sophisticated topper.
Our meal ended on a high note with a light-as-air banana phyllo tart, lavender-flecked pound cake with berry compote and lemon sorbet, and a selection of cheeses. We also enjoyed another hallmark of a caring and careful food establishment: excellent espresso.
Zagat Rated "Excellent" 2007/08 Food 24
Environmental Hero Award 2007"
21st Annual Belmar Seafood Festival
Garden Plate June 2006 "Meet Chef Chris" http://www.gardenplate.com/article/feature?articleId=81
Zagat 2006/2007 Excellent!!! "fine service, lavishly prepared food period."
May 2006 "Top Ten at the
Currents Magazine~March 2005 Food Editor "Our Best Resaurant Find" www.Currentsmag.com
Monmouth Health & Life~
Customers Bill & Pat Tarpy ~ February 2005 "The best food I have eaten in this state in 40 years! There is no question that we will be back and back again. Congratulations!
The Coast Star ~ August 2004 Business Profille "
The Record ~ August 2003 "
The Artful Diner ~ May 2003 Top Ten At the
The